Monday, February 14, 2005

Morning came early

I was questioning our sanity when the alarm went off at 2:40 (!) this snowy morning, but WOW. We could tell Morgestraich (as the Monday morning event is known) was going to be interesting when we got on the tram at around 3:00am and it was completely packed with people, most of whom were wearing funny costumes and carrying masks and/or drums. (We live near the start of the tram line, so even on the busiest of days the tram is no more than 10% full by the time it gets to our stop.) Within a few stops there was absolutely no more room on the tram. AT 3:00 IN THE FREAKIN' MORNING! When we got off the tram downtown, it was absolutely bustling with people in garish costumes--the busiest I've ever seen downtown Basel. And did I mention that this was at 3:00 in the morning?

Anyway, our friends Chris and Suzanne live in an apartment along one of the main areas for Morgestraich, so we got to their place around 3:45 (and boy, was everyone happy to see us since we brought our coffee maker). At this point there were thousands of people milling about the streets of Basel with no sense of what was to come. Then, promptly at 4:00am, all of the lights downtown went out. As if on cue, a deafening blast of fife-and-drum music arose from the streets. This continued for the next couple of hours as fife-and-drum cliques (as they're known) marched randomly through the narrow old streets of the old city. The only light was provided by giant painted lanterns that were hauled along, and by smaller lanterns that were either carried or worn on top of peoples' masks. We dedided to walk through the crowds on our way back to the tram, and at times it was breathtaking to be standing on a dark street amidst the cacophony of music and see nothing but colorfully painted lanterns in all directions. Definitely a big thumbs-up, even if it meant getting out of bed at the crack of dawn. And we'll post a few pictures later...